what persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift?

Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. It is due to: Wind-generated waves are progressive waves because they travel across the sea surface. Formula on pg. B. motion of sand pushing waves up depending on the slope of the bottom lectures | What landform would this create? Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Chapter 7 Summary Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. All of the following factors affect the probability of mass wasting EXCEPT: Which of the following mass wasting mitigation efforts is characterized by spraying reinforced concrete onto a slop surface? Internal Waves The crests build up and the troughs build down. Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Another term for thermohaline circulation is the 'global conveyor belt'. depending on the slope of the bottom http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Submarine disturbance Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Spits, bars, berms, barrier islands, and other features related to longshore drift are ultimately the result of what? As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. Resonance When a wave breaks at a more acute (steep) angle on a beach, encounters a steeper beach slope, or is very Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. depending on the slope of the bottom The areas from which streams collect water are separated into ________, the borders of which are defined by local topographic highs. Standing waves oscillate about a fixed point. Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. This area is characterized by a "confused" sea state with extensive wave interference. Shallow-water Wave Transformations the wave base? In other words, as this increases, there is a deeper reach of wave base. labs | It is due to: What important function do surface currents provide to the land? http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Swell - more regular waves beyond area of generation - Wave form Progressive waves move along the sea surface. They are stationary and Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a) Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. When wave passes, no net displacement of water. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Progressive Waves Answers: A. D. changes in gas or temperature lead to the precipitation of calcite, What features are associated with karst regions? They are stationary and Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. What is the mass of Fe2O3Fe_2O_3Fe2O3 in 0.500 g of this mixture? Wave Motions D. gravity on land decreases because of felsic composition 239 Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. labs | Wave height/wave length. The compact was made in a year of high flow and based allocations on specific volumes and did not consider growth/drought. Answers: A.B.C. They occur when water masses slip over one another. What persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? Surfing Video: Condition Black The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. D. normal lectures | labs | - Speed decreases Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. They have very long periods and very large heights. WebA. Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. Surf - waves that have reached the coast, grow in height, and break labs | Breaking is determined by wave steepness Tsunamis A. gaining stream There are two other notable types of progressive waves. This interference may be: Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. the wave base? Wave Refraction (Figure 7-8a) This area is characterized by a "confused" sea state with extensive wave interference. They occur when water masses slip over one another. E. shore currents push waves up Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. The speed (celerity) of the wave form can be calculated by [ home port | D. Thistle Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Two basic motions associated with an ocean wave: Chapter 7 Summary surf | Life History of Ocean Waves WebWhat persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) Other Types of Progressive Waves This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). Shallow-water Wave Transformations - Wavelength shortens In other words, as this increases, there is a deeper reach of wave base. Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Internal Waves Storm Surges Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. Standing Waves - Persistent onshore winds. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. the wave base. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Destructive wave interference occurs when the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave resulting in a cancellation. The orbital motion of water particles beneath the wave. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. labs | Resonance - Wind duration It is the energy of the wave, not its mass that is in motion. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. The speed (celerity) of the wave form can be calculated by. Surfing Video: Condition Black - Destructive When a landslide dams a river, what is the ultimate hazard? Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a) Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. - Drag along the bottom. Thermohaline circulation is important for Earth because this process, E. Prevents ocean water from freezing by adding salt. email prof. ] Surfing Video: Condition Black In deep water most waves do not interact with the sea bottom and are called deep-water waves. Whether an ocean current moves horizontally or vertically depends on its what? In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. Higher storm energy in the winter moves sand off the beach and stores it in the nearshore. This interference may be: In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. The density of seawater is determined by what two things? Internal Waves Because the moon orbits around the Earth in the same direction the Earth rotates, it takes more time for the same point on the Earth to be beneath the moon over the lunar day. A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. - Wavelength shortens Answers: A. C. F. G. What is an important result of the molecular process by which water freezes in contrast with most other substances? A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! Other Types of Progressive Waves Wave Motion with Depth (Figure 7-3a) Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: Internal Waves Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a) Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Shallow Waves Affected by Bottom (Figure 7-6b) What was the trigger for this landslide? How deep do wave motions go into the water, i.e. select two. Sea - irregular waves in the area of generation All of the following are ways in which sedimentary rocks form EXCEPT: A mixture of Fe2O3Fe_2O_3Fe2O3 and FeOFeOFeO was found to contain 72.00% FeFeFe by mass. Resonance [ home port | (in other words, as _____ increases the wave base gets deeper.). Internal Waves As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. - Celerity A. high permeability This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing SELECT ALL THAT APPLY, Slightly more than 24 hours, Slightly more than 12 hours, Depends on the location. Spits, bars, barrier islands, and other features related to longshore drift are ultimately the result of what? Click here for ANIMATION Standing Waves D. swash zone - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. surf | _____________ causes surface currents, ______________ causes deep currents. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Click here for ANIMATION Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) Storm Surges http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Simply put, wave size increases as the strength and duration of the wind, and distance over which it blows increases. lectures | Introductory Geology Water 5.11 Student Responses 1. Chapter 7 Summary They occur when water masses slip over one another. - Persistent onshore winds. Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. C. shear - Drag along the bottom. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11). The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. - Persistent onshore winds. Wave Refraction (Figure 7-8a) Speed of the waves Fetch of the waves The number of waves in the wave train Angle that waves hit the shoreline Wavelength of the waves. C. currents that bring water up always have a curved shape email prof. ] Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. It is wave energy not water molecules that moves across the sea surface. The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. - Wind duration

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